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Margherita Pizza Recipe Biography

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existence of a real pizzeria- since then pizzaiolos had only open -air stalls- and that is the one born in Naples called Porta D’Alba because it was found by the arch that introduced from Dante square into Costantinopoli street. The pizzeria had a good oven covered with firebricks and the fire was stocked by wood. Alexander Dumas, the French writer, mentioned in his works the various types of pizza made in Naples and stated that there was a pizza called "a otto" that was cooked a week before eating it. But he surely was wrong since it meant that people could pay it after eight days when they got paid.

The crowning of the pizza, certainly, happened during the visit of Queen Margherita and her prince consort Umbert I at Capodimonte royal palace in Naples during summer 1889. The queen got curious about pizza she had probably heard by some writers or artists admitted at court. Since she couldn’t go to a “pizzeria” she had the most famous pizzaiolo of that time go to her.

The chronicles of the times, tell that the Neapolitan pizzaiolo, Raffaele Esposito and his wife Rosa, who was the real pizza expert, owners of the famous pizzeria “Pietro il pizzaiolo”, that later would become pizzeria Brandi, were asked to prepare in the kitchen of the palace their special pizzas. They prepared three pizzas that were introduced to the sovereigns: one made with scraps on pig fat, cheese and basil; the second one garlic, oil and tomato and the third one with mozzarella , tomato and basil, representing the colours of the Italian flag, which thrilled the queen Margherita and not only for its patriotic reasons.

Don Raffaele being a good public-relator, seized the opportunity and called it pizza “Margherita”. He had the permission to name it after Queen Margherita. The following day he put it on the list at his pizzeria and got many and many requests. This episode had such a vast echo that the pizza Margherita and all of its variations became so popular in Italy that soon met the favour of people all over the world. As for the oven, ours comes from the Greek tradition inherited by Egyptians who were the first to build it and that had a cylindrical form. Greeks modified it introducing a dome with a room. Romans learnt from Greeks how to build ovens improving dome ovens. Built with full bricks that would slowly build up heat and slowly release heat, it allowed to cook after bread, meat, fish, vegetables, cakes.

From the Roman age till the beginning of 1900s there haven’t been relevant modifications in oven building. Today there are different types on the market for domestic use (gas, electricity, air, microwave) and commercial use.

There isn’t a big difference from the oven that are made in Italy from the ones made in Portugal or Bulgary since there is not one type : some of them are in the external part rectangular shaped others dome shaped, but the one made in Hungary called kemence is quite interesting.

As far as pizza oven regards , it can’t be the usual common wood-firing oven but studied to cook pizza, as it is said in Naples , in a “blaze” at once!

The ideal oven should have the floor made with a first layer of tufa, a second layer with river sand , a third layer with sea salt and the last layer with a stone called “ground of Sorrento” which has the characteristics of storing heat. In such an oven well built pizza cooks at 400° degrees or more, at once.

The dome oven has had for centuries also a relevant social function: in villages where bread was made once a week men and women would “meet” while bread was cooking.

Today there is a new tendency that is groups of families or friends gathering in villages or mountains on week-ends or in occasion of holidays or feasts to cook pizzas and meat and/or prepare dishes with simple local food of the traditional gastronomy in public ovens made by Municipalities or Comunità Montana .It is also a way to rediscover the old good way of being together and have fun in a natural environment.

Pizzaiolo

As far as the pizzaiolo concerns everything lies on his hands that he should use skilfully both to balance the ingredients and to work the dough. In fact, he should know how much salt, yeast and water to use and , according to his experience, work the dough in a way that it should be soft and elastic. The water used is also related to weather conditions . A good pizzaiolo should know all the factors that contribute to make the success of pizza that he will acquire through years of training by experienced pizzaiolos and not following a few months course where you get a certificate at the end as most of the old experienced, skilful pizzaiolos from Naples say.

In fact according to tradition, Pizza must be spread out only by hands, without using the rollig pin or any other mechanical tool. With a quick and wise swinging of the dough, when entrusted to wise hands, "the pettola", so it's the ready dough called, assumes its classical, perfectly round conformation, thin and of the same thickness in every single position. Pizza, made in pizza-places, has transformed into a rite: watching the best pizza-makers at work is the same as being able to admire the perfection of man' hands which, through manipulation often reaches an unbelievable spectacularity.